I read a great article about Jonathan Gold (excellent and prominent LA food critic) this week. I have actually written an entire post about Gold, but just haven't put it up yet. I have to quote this article because it captures something of Los Angeles that is hard to explain, and it does so quite well, I think:
[Jonathan Gold] sees Los Angeles as the "anti-melting pot" -- the home of true, undiluted regional cookery -- but also has a fondness for what he calls the "triple carom": the Cajun seafood restaurant that caters to Chinese customers and is run by Vietnamese from Texas.
Another moment:
[Gold says,] "The noodles [this place] serves are a specialty of Lanzhou, which is known for being one of the most polluted cities in China -- and for its hand-pulled noodles." Inside, Gold sat down and ordered a couple of bowlfuls...The kitchen was visible from the dining area. "Note the Mexican guy rolling out the dough and tossing the noodles," he said, tucking into his soup. "I don't know why, but that always makes me extremely happy."
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